Selecting The Proper Increment Borer

Finding the right increment borer can be a simple matter of the size and type of trees to be sampled. Bit length, thread style, and core diameter are the key features to keep in mind when choosing a borer.

The proper bit length depends on the diameter of trees to be sampled. Bit length should be equal to approximately ½ the diameter of the tree.

Increment borers are available in either two- or three-thread designs. Which design you choose depends largely on the type of trees to be sampled. Two-thread borer bits are more suitable for harder wood. They turn slower and generate more strength during a turn. This results in deeper penetration with each turn.

Three-thread borer bits grab the wood faster, and turn more easily. However, threading is not the only factor influencing the ease and speed of taking tree cores. Wood type, friction, and the capabilities of the user all help determine whether the core sample will be taken easily.

Diameter of a core is determined by the inside diameter of the thread end of the bit. The most common sizes are 4.3 mm, 5.0 mm, and 5.15 mm, depending on the manufacturer. The larger diameters are most often used for measuring the fiber length of wood and for quantitative analysis when larger samples are required.

Once the proper increment borer has been selected, a few maintenance tips will help ensure a long life for the borer. Tree sap and moisture can etch, pit, or otherwise damage the borer making it ineffective, so borers should always be cleaned prior to storage.

Use WD-40 or any light oil and a tissue or cloth to clean borer bits. If rust becomes a problem, fine steel wool may be substituted for the tissue or cloth. After cleaning, beeswax may be applied to the borer threads and shank for ease of operation and to help protect the tip. All parts should be dry prior to storage. If small nicks develop in the tip of the borer that cannot be removed with steel wool, they can often be repaired by the manufacturer.

How to Choose The Right Personal Flotation Device!

Boating accident studies reveal that most drowning deaths occur when individuals are not wearing a Personal Flotation Device (PFD). The importance of PFDs has been further supported by a significant decrease in drowning fatalities since the U.S. Coast Guard approved the highly popular Type III general flotation aid as an acceptable PFD.

While all PFDs have limitations, most can successfully prevent a drowning death if they meet basic criteria such as:

• The PFD must be readily available


• The PFD functions to keep the wearer's head out of water


• The PFD must be durable and reliable enough to perform when needed

PFDs are classified into 5 different types. These divisions are based on use and overall protection provided.

Type I PFDs / Off-Shore Life Jackets—These are the best overall PFDs, and should be used in the open ocean, rough seas, remote waters and where rescue may be slow in coming.

Type II PFDs / Near-Shore Buoyant Vests—Type II vests are for general boating activities, and can be used in calm inland waters, or where there is a good chance of fast rescue.

Type III PFDs / Flotation Aids— A common flotation vest, a Type III PFD is for general boating in specialized recreational activities, and are marked accordingly.

Type IV PFDs / Throwable Devices—Unlike the previous vests, these PFDs are designed to be thrown to someone stranded in the water. Typical Type IV devices are Ring Buoys. Also available are Flotation Cushions.

Type V PFDs / Special Use Devices—While these devices apear similar to other types, they are specalized for such uses as work vests, man-overboard rescue devices, law enforcement flotation devices and whitewater vests.

Untimately, the safest PFD is one a person is willing to wear at all times.

For more information on Personal Flotation Devices and water safety, see the U. S. Coast Guard website.
http://www.uscg.mil/

What the Heck is a Mosquito Dunk?

Mosquito Dunks are little 'donuts' containing a bacteria called Bti which is toxic to mosquito larvae. The idea is to place these dunks in a shallow stagnant water body where mosquitoes lay their eggs, such as an old tire, birdbath, or even a coffee can partially filled with water. As the material in the dunk dissolves, it becomes a food source for the mosquito larvae. Over time, the Bti infects the larvae and it dies.

Effectiveness - I can personally attest that this stuff works, but it is important to remember that this is a food source. If someone tries to put a dunk in a pond that already has plenty of good muck for larvae to eat, it probably won't work very well.

Toxicity - These are safe to use around fish and wildlife (per the manufacturer). The Bti has undergone a lot of toxicity testing, and all the inert ingredients are all food grade and medical grade.

pH Meters and Calibration

ALL pH meters need to be calibrated using buffer solutions. The brand doesn't matter—you could use Oakton solutions with a Hanna meter or vice versa.

So what buffers will you need? Everyone will need a pH 7 buffer. Some of the economical meters say they have "one point calibration". In this case, all you need is the 7 buffer. For meters that have 2- or 3-point calibration you will need a 7 along with either a 4 or 10 buffer. You may need both, depending on the type of solutions you are testing. You'll want a lower range buffer (4) for solutions that are more acidic or have a low-pH range and a higher range buffer (10) for more basic solutions.

How To Test for Soil Compaction

Soil compaction occurs below the surface, so it's hard to spot. The best way to test for it is to probe the soil with a compaction tester to a depth of 36" to 48". The testing rod should move down through the soil with steady, even pressure. Hard, compacted soils resist penetration with the rod. Often penetration abruptly stops at a fairly uniform depth across a field or landscape area. This is referred to as "plowpan". For trees and shrubs, comparing root growth inside and outside the root ball is a quick way to tell if compaction is a problem. If you find evidence of compaction, dig to the depth indicated and check for abnormal root growth.

Soil compaction tools range from manual soil compaction rods to digital recording compaction meters. With a manual compaction rod, you can tell when you hit a hard compacted layer. Dial compaction probes tell you how much pressure (in pounds per square inch) it takes to penetrate the soil via a needle moving across a scale on the display. Digital compaction meters are similar to the dial probes, but they give you a digital reading and have the ability to record the depth and pressure for each test. No matter which tool you choose, make sure that the probe has depth markings so if you hit a compacted layer you will know how deep to go in order to correct the problem.

Ben Meadows Repairs

We'll do the repair...

Ben Meadows offers repair service on SUUNTO® precision units and SPENCER® Logger tapes here at our facility. We can also sharpen your Increment Borers when they're in need of a clean up.

Got something we can't fix? We'll find someone who can!

We work with a multitude of vendors and can coordinate a 3rd party repair upon your request!

Need help diagnosing a problem?

Call (800-241-6401 x5221) or Email our Technical Support and we'll help you figure out what's wrong with your instrument, get you the replacement parts you need or set up an in house or 3rd party repair for your unit.

We have the parts you need to get it fixed!

We carry a number of replacement parts for products we stock. Like SOLO® Sprayers, Drip Torches, Water Testing Kits and Soil Sampling Equipment.

Remember, you can give us a Call (800-241-6401 x5221) or send us an Email and we'll help you keep your instruments in working order!

GPS Antennas

All GPS receivers have one of two types of built-in antennas. Either Quad-Helix or Patch. The differences are important depending on the use.

Quad-Helix antennas perform better under tree canopies. You'll notice that the Garmin GPS 72 mentions "better satellite tracking even under tree canopy". That's because this receiver has a quad-helix antenna. Many other receivers we carry have quad-helix antennas as well.

Patch antennas work better near steep cliff walls or tall buildings. You'll often find a patch antenna in true recreational receivers designed for hikers, such as the eTrex series.

Just about all external antennas are patch antennas. This kind of makes sense, because most of these are designed to be placed on the roof of a car. Much more likely that your Cadillac El Dorado will be near a tall building than in the middle of a cypress bog.